Waxing Instructions
This is just a guide for waxing skis; there are many other tips and tricks that are worth trying. Skiing is a sport that requires some experimentation with waxing. Always be willing to try new things and attend clinics to obtain the latest information and tips.
How to Wax Brand New Skis -
Step 1: Brush ski with fine copper or brass brush to open up pores. Make 2-3 passes with the brush.
Step 2: Optional - Take a fibertex and pinch corners to round the edges. A ski is faster with rounded edges; edges are NOT used to get grip; edges will wear and round over time.
Step 3: Crayon on a soft wax such as a red base wax or a yellow colored wax. So there will be no spots were the iron touches the ski directly.
Step 4: Melt and drip with iron same wax onto ski. Don't worry about putting too much wax on the ski. Soft wax fills in the pores better than hard wax. The ski is dry and thirsty for wax. Use ski wax color charts or wax case information for iron temperature for application. (Use a specially made waxing iron, the holes and uneven temperatures of household irons may cause problems during waxing, even burning and damaging the ski base material.) If the iron is smoking the iron is too hot and needs to be turned down.
Step 5: Always iron from tip to tail. Iron over the ski somewhat fast, to flatten out the wax.
Step 6: Iron over the ski again at about ½ inch per second. Always iron from tip to tail. Repeat this 3-5 times to melt the wax into the pores.
Step 7: Let ski sit for at least 10 minutes, (20 - 45 minutes ideal) so the ski is sufficiently cool. The pores open when the ski is heated, so if you scrape it too soon it will just pull the wax out of the pores, and not do any good.
Step 8: Scrape the groves first. So if you come out of the grove, you do not damage the ski. Push the scraper with the scraper edge dragging or trailing behind, not forward to prevent cutting into the base. Scrape from tip to tail.
Step 9: Scrape ski with plastic scraper 2-3 times to remove the wax on the surface. Again push the scraper with the scraper edge dragging or trailing behind, not forward to prevent cutting into the base. Scrape from tip to tail.
Note: Excess wax on skis can create ridges that do not allow the maximum contact between the ski and the snow. This will create resistance that reduces the skis ability to glide. Scrape to remove all wax above the ski base, being careful not to scrape so hard as to remove ski base material.
Step 10: Brush ski with nylon brush 5-10 times to remove the wax that the scraper missed and smooth the surface. Brush from tip to tail.
Now put on wax for appropriate conditions and your ready to ski. (See How to Wax Skis.)
How to Wax Skis -
Step 1: Brush ski with fine copper or brass brush to remove dirt and debris, as well as open up pores. Make 2-3 passes with the brush. This should be done every time skis are waxed.
Step 2: Crayon on a wax color selected for the appropriate conditions. Use ski wax color charts or wax case information for snow temperature/moisture ranges, as well as iron temperature setting for application. (For races attempt to predict snow temperature and moisture based on weather forecasts.) Hard waxes may require a cheese grater or melting to apply. So there will be no spots were the iron touches the ski directly.
Note: CH type waxes are used for dry snow conditions. HF and LF type waxes are used for wet snow conditions. And Klisters are used for icy and wet snow conditions in kick region of classic skis only.
Step 3: Melt and drip with iron same wax onto ski. So there will be no spots were the iron touches the ski directly. Don't worry about putting too much wax on the ski. Hard (Colder Temperature) waxes may require a cheese grater or melting to apply. (Use a specially made waxing iron, the holes and uneven temperatures of household irons may cause problems during waxing, even burning and damaging the ski base material.)
Step 4: Iron over the ski somewhat fast, to flatten out the wax. Always iron from tip to tail.
Step 5: Iron over the ski again at about ½ inch per second. Always iron from tip to tail. Repeat this 3-5 times to melt the wax into the pores.
Step 6: Let ski sit for at least 10 minutes, (20 - 45 minutes ideal) so the ski is sufficiently cool. The pores open when the ski is heated, so if you scrape it too soon it will just push the wax out of the pores and not do you any good.
Step 7: Scrape the groves first. So if you come out of the grove, you do not damage the ski. Push the scraper with the scraper edge dragging or trailing behind, not forward to prevent cutting into the base. Scrape from tip to tail.
Step 8: Scrape ski with plastic scraper 2-3 times to remove the wax on the surface. Again push the scraper with the scraper edge dragging or trailing behind, not forward to prevent cutting into the base. Scrape from tip to tail.
Note: Excess wax on skis can create ridges that do not allow the maximum contact between the ski and the snow. This will create resistance that reduces the ski’s ability to glide. Scrape to remove all wax above the ski base, being careful not to scrape so hard as to remove ski base material.
Repeat steps 3 though 8 if changing waxes for temperature/moisture conditions or if skis will see repeated use between waxing. Repeat once or twice to fully prepare your skis.
Step 9: Brush ski with nylon brush 5-10 times to remove the wax that the scraper missed and smooth the surface. Brush from tip to tail.
How to Hot Scrape Skis -
Note: Hot scraping is used to clean skis and remove old and incorrect temperature waxes.
Step 1: Brush ski with copper or brass brush to remove dirt and debris, as well as open up pores. Make 2-3 passes with the brush.
Step 2: Crayon on a soft and cheap wax. So there will be no spots were the iron touches the ski directly.
Step 3: Melt with iron and drip same wax onto ski. Don't worry about putting too much wax on the ski.
Step 4: Iron over the ski somewhat fast, to flatten out the wax. Always iron from tip to tail.
Step 5: Iron over the ski again at about ½ inch per second. Always iron from tip to tail. Repeat this 2-3 times to melt the wax into the pores.
Step 6: Scrape the ski within seconds with a somewhat dull plastic scraper 2-3 times to remove the wax. This will push the wax out of the pores, along with the dirt.
Step 7: Scrape the groves. Scraping with the whole ski with the scraper is more important to do than the groves so you should scrape with the scraper first.
Step 8: Repeat as necessary.
Treat skis similar to brand new skis and put on wax for appropriate conditions and your ready to ski.
How to Define Kick Wax Region of Skis -
Kick wax is applied only to the kick region of Classic Skis. Do NOT apply glide wax to the kick region of a Classic Ski. If glide wax is in the kick region use hot scraping, fiber film (cloth) and heating, or wax remover to clean the area. If you are unsure of your kick region, have another person assist you in finding it using the following steps, or have a ski shop define these regions for you. Most ski shops will do this for free. Glide and Kick regions of your skis will change with 5 to 10 pound changes in weight, redefine regions accordingly.
Note: To remove old permanent marker from sides of skis use a pencil or ink eraser or apply hairspray and rub off while wet. If using hairspray, do not spray on base material as it may plug pores, cover base or apply to a rag and rub the sides of the ski.
Step 1: Find a smooth even floor or surface large enough to stand in your skis. Make sure the floor is clean and flat. Put on your ski boots and lock into your Classic Skis.
Step 2: With your weight evenly distributed on both skis have your assistant slide thick paper (construction paper or a credit card) from the center of the ski forward until it firmly sticks. Mark the location of the forward edge of the paper on the side of the ski with a permanent marker. Have your assistant slide thick paper from the center of the ski rearward until it firmly sticks. Mark the location of the rearward edge of the paper on the side of the ski with a permanent marker. Repeat for both skis.
The area of the skis outside of the marks from step 2 (the tip and tail) are your glide waxing areas.
Step 3: Shift a small amount of weight to one ski (no more than 5 or 10 pounds). With your weight shifted to a ski have your assistant slide thick paper (construction paper or a credit card) from the center of the ski forward until it firmly sticks. Mark the location of the forward edge of the paper on the side of the ski with a permanent marker. Have your assistant slide thick paper from the center of the ski rearward until it firmly sticks. Mark the location of the rearward edge of the paper on the side of the ski with a permanent marker. Repeat for both skis.
The area of the skis inside of the marks from step 3 (center of the skis) are your kick waxing areas.
The small areas between the marks from step 2 and step 3 are adjustment areas. If you are not getting enough kick, extend the kick region further into these areas. If you are not getting enough glide, reduce the kick area by extending the glide waxing into these areas. Some experimentation is required to determine your correct amount of kick area. In general if kick is low extend, with low or no glide reduce.
Note: Kick wax applied over glide wax will peel off very quickly when skiing. To remove glide wax use hot scraping, fiber film (cloth) and heating, or wax remover to clean the area.
How to Kick Wax Skis -
Step 1: Apply wax for appropriate conditions on the glide zones. (See How to Wax Skis)
Step 2: Remove ALL wax in the kick zone with fiber film/cloth and wax remover (alternatively with fiber film/cloth and heating), so the kick wax sticks to the ski and not other waxes.
Step 3: If skis are new or kick wax is not holding up while skiing, lightly sandpaper the kick zone with fine grit sandpaper (150 grit or finer {higher number grit}) to add roughness to the base so the kick wax stays on the ski. Do NOT do this if you have a combi ski. Sanding the kick region removes base material of the ski. Do not over sand.
Step 4: Apply binder kick wax by dragging the wax stick at approximately a 30 to 45 degree angle across the kick region of the ski (again tip to tail). Apply a nice smooth even track of wax. It is not necessary to bear down on the stick wax, this will result in clumping and ridging that causes uneven areas in your kick region and less contact area with the snow.
Step 5: Using your thumb, force the wax around from side to side leveling and smoothing the kick wax binder to cover the kick area.
Step 6: Iron the binder in to have the wax embraced in the ski. Let ski sit for at least 10 minutes, (20 - 45 minutes ideal) so the ski is sufficiently cool. Again the pores open when the ski is heated, so if you cork it too soon it will just push the binder wax out of the pores and not do any good. Clean your iron afterward to avoid introducing kick wax into glide wax regions.
Step 7: Cork the kick wax binder in, rubbing and working it in from the front to back of the kick region, leveling and smoothing to cover the kick area. This not only levels, but removes excess and textures the kick wax binder. Repeat Step 4 through Step 7 to establish a strong binder layer.
Step 8: Apply kick wax according to the temperature and moisture conditions by dragging the wax stick at approximately a 30 to 45 degree angle across the kick region of the ski (again tip to tail). Apply a nice smooth even track of wax. Again it is not necessary to bear down on the stick wax, this will result in clumping and ridging that causes uneven areas in your kick region and less surface contact area with the snow.
Step 9: Using your thumb, force the wax around from side to side leveling and smoothing the kick wax to cover the kick area.
Step 10: Cork the kick wax in, rubbing and working it in from the front to back of the kick region, leveling and smoothing to cover the kick area, removing excess kick wax. Repeat Step 8 through Step 10 once or twice to establish a good layer of kick wax and your ready to go!
Refreshing Kick Wax – Once a good kick wax binder has been established the kick wax region can be refreshed without repeating the entire procedure. Refreshing kick wax cleans the skis, removing old or incorrect temperature kick waxes. To refresh the kick simply scrape the kick region with a plastic scraper (pushing the scraper similar to scraping the glide wax regions) and start at Step 8. Clean your scraper afterward to avoid introducing kick wax into glide wax regions.
Notes: There are a variety of stick kick waxes covering various snow conditions and temperature ranges. Kick waxes are not to be confused with block type CH waxes used for glide areas or block type HF and LF waxes used for wet snow conditions also used in glide areas only. VR type kick waxes are used in wet snow conditions and Klisters are used for icy and wet snow conditions in the kick region of classic skis only.
Klister kick waxes are applied in the same manner as refreshing a wax (Steps 8-10). But use an old cork as the Klister will gum up the cork making it unusable for other kick waxes. To remove Klister lay a piece of fiber film (cloth) or paper towel over the kick area and dab a small amount of wax remover to the fiber film (cloth) or paper towel. Use an old plastic scraper to remove the fiber film (cloth) or paper towel. Removing a Klister may remove some of the kick wax binder, reapplying a kick wax binder is recommended (See Step 4 above).
Other Waxing Tips and Tricks Skis -
1: Structure Tool for Warm Temperatures and Wet Snow Conditions – Roll the base of your skis using a structure tool. Make a single pass only. The structure tool creates a groove structure in the wax base allowing water in the surfaces of the snow to channel through the skis (similar to tire treads on car tires). Without the channels the water creates a film layer with a suction drag resistive force slowing you down. Structuring should not be used on cold dry snow, as it creates ridges that catch the snow creating drag slowing you down. Waxing skis will remove the structure.
2: Summer Storage – Failure to properly store skis can result in the base material of the skis oxidizing and hardening. When the base material of the ski oxidizes it whitens from the corrosion and seals up the pores of the base material, not allowing it to take on and hold wax. If the oxidation is mild scraping with a metal scraper may remove it, this also removes some base material. Therefore this is one of the few times a metal scraper should be used. All other wax scraping should be done with a plastic scraper. Heavy scraping is not recommended, as it can result in irregular surfacing of the ski’s base material. If severely oxidized the skis may require resurfacing via stone grinding. Stone grinding removes a small layer of base material. A set of skis may only be ground a few times before most of the base material is removed. Gear West does stone grinding. To avoid damage to skis during storage take the following steps.
Step 1: Crayon on a soft and cheap wax such as a red base wax or a yellow colored wax. So there will be no spots were the iron touches the ski directly.
Step 2: Melt with iron and drip same wax onto ski.
Step 3: Iron over the ski somewhat fast, to flatten out the wax. Always iron from tip to tail.
Step 4: Iron over the ski again at about ½ inch per second. Always iron from tip to tail. Repeat this 2-4 times to melt the wax into the pores.
Step 5: Do NOT Scrape, but repeat steps 2 though 4 once or twice to build up a good protective layer of wax.
Step 6: Bag skis and place in storage.
When ready to use again, scrape the excess wax from the grooves first and then the whole ski. Put on wax for appropriate conditions and your ready to ski.
Both Classic and Skate (freestyle) skiing are used during the season, and athletes are required to wax regularly and properly. Waxing time at school or home is also necessary once or twice a week. A waxing clinic is held early in season to teach correct process. Gear West holds free weekly waxing clinics throughout season. Patience and care required due to size, maintenance and frequent transport of equipment. Gear West’s owner Brian Knutson is a Former Cardinal skier and State Champion and provides a discount to the Coon Rapids Skiers.